I love reading, anything and everything, but I don't think any book excites me as much as a new cookbook does. Geeky, perhaps, but I love to read them and flick through, imagining the deliciousness to come. I'm relatively particular about cookbooks too...I don't enjoy those run-of-the-mill, straight-up recipe books (you know the ones - they fill the 'bargain bin' at your local bookshop and often originate from certain "women's" magazines) because I find them fairly soulless - and if the cookbook is lacking in soul, then surely the recipes will be too? But I do like recipe books written by one specific author whose presence is really felt throughout the book. Unfortunately in recent times this has meant largely celebrity chefs, and I don't really want to jump on that whole celeb chef bandwagon, but by the same token, I enjoy reading a cookbook which has a sense of the author about it. I like reading why a recipe has been selected for inclusion in the book, reading how guests at dinner parties have responded to the decadent desserts, and hearing how a recipe actually evolved. To me that makes the food seem much more real than the glossy, plasticky looking pictures other cookbooks contain.
So, this week I got two new cookbooks (there was a sale at the bookshop...). The first is Nigella's Express. I have to say that while I was originally a Nigella fan, I've become less enamoured by her TV show cookery - finding her need to wax lyrical to camera about each and every ingredient inclusion a bit much to stomach. But I do like her cookbooks. She has a wonderful style of writing and her love of food and cooking - without the poetic editorialising - really comes through in her books. Some people aren't aware that Nigella was a food writer - a restaurant reviewer, I think - before her meteoric rise to culinary stardom, and I think it is in her writing where she really stars. So, Nigella has finally joined my cookbook collection, and I welcome her to the fold!
The second book I bought is called Economy Gastronomy by Allegra McEvedy (who writes for the Guardian) and Paul Merrett. They actually had a tv show on the BBC earlier this year based on the book and its principles...these being, use what you have, don't waste stuff, cook things from scratch because it's cheaper, and generally stop wasting money! Their idea is that you can eat really well, but cheaply, if you are organised and put in a bit of effort. Now, I have to admit that a large chunk of my enjoyment in watching this TV show came from the sense of superiority I felt over some of the idiot families whose kitchen and cooking efforts were 'made over' by the cheffy duo (yes, I freely admit that part of the pleasure of reality TV is how much better about yourself it frequently makes you feel...come on, admit you feel the same way!) These families spent an exorbitant amount on food and were wasting horrendous amounts of both food and money, and in the show were taught how to do things more sensibly, while still eating really well. These are all principles that I tend to adhere to anyway (I could frequently be heard quipping, 'I bet they couldn't cut more than 5pounds at the most from my weekly food budget', while watching) - planning meals, using leftovers, making one recipe and then using it several times - so really in that sense, I didn't need the cookbook. But they do have some lovely recipe ideas that I'm dying to add to my repertoire, so I got Economy Gastronomy at the same time as Nigella.
The major challenge I have when buying new cookbooks, though, is actually making recipes from them! I tend to get all overwhelmed with ideas and inspiration and become completely incapable of deciding what to make! Silly, probably, but there you go. I'm still sans oven, too, which is limiting my choices considerably. When I make a decision, I'll let you know...!
What are your favourite cookbooks? And are they the ones you actually use? Which are the most food-splattered books on your shelf (because surely that's the mark of a truly brilliant cookbook)?
The New Books:
Nigella Lawson, "Nigella Express: Good Food Fast", Chatto and Windus: London, 2007.
Allegra McEvedy and Paul Merret, "Economy Gastronomy: Eat Better and Spend Less", Michael Joseph: London, 2009.
I love the sound of the Economy Gastronomy one. While I am good at whipping something from nothing and finding inventive ways to use leftovers (the leftover broadbean dip from Sat night that I added to Sunday's soup was quite inspired, if I do say so myself. It really filled it out and picked it up and added some really fresh, herby flavours), I have to admit that we are pretty lazy when it comes to planning and my new task this year has been to waste less. So I'll definitely be checking that one out.
ReplyDeleteThe cookbook I couldn't live without is The Cook's Companion by well-known Australian chef Stephanie Alexander. This came as a surprise to me because usually I don't look at anything that doesn't come with at least one picture per recipe, but it's like our kitchen bible. It's laid out alphabetically by ingredient and succeeds in providing all the most valuable info about each ingredient (seasons, varieties, uses, good pairings, preparation and cooking options) as well as a few key recipes that are neither to well known so as to be redundant to a reasonable accomplished home cook (though it does include all the basics you'd need) nor too fancy, fashionable or intimidating. It's inventive and inspiring, but comforting and companionable as well. It's wonderful.
Oh it sounds fabulous! I'll keep an eye out for it. I've never actually owned a book like that - almost a kitchen encyclopaedia, rather than a recipe collection, per se. I like the idea though! I'm often intrigued by new ingredients but then shy away because I have no idea what to do with them.
ReplyDeleteAlison Holst is my most used and referred-to cookbook writer, I must say. The cover of her 'Ultimate Collection' is torn (and singed...I must have put it on a hot element one day!) and the pages are liberally smeared with food and god knows what else. I got it signed by her at a food show once, and she was delighted to see it in such a state! She told her publicist that they should be taking photos of books like that, rather than new ones. I'm glad cooks feel that way about their books really - especially since I've already spilled on the new Economy Gastronomy one!
If you like the sound of the EG book, you might also like books by Sophie Gray (otherwise known as the Destitute Gourmet). She's a NZ cook with very similar principles and in her first 3 books at least, really great recipes (the kind that actually work exactly as she says they will...sometimes a rare thing!). She also gives less prominence to meat in her recipes and encourages people to use legumes etc more in their cooking as a way of saving money, being more sustainable and generally being healthier...whereas the EG book still uses a lot of meat (though does have some nice vege and fish recipes).